Yellow Dog Lodge Story, 2008-03-02
Well, as I sit here in my home office outside of Thunder Bay,
Ontario, I look out the window and it’s crazy-windy, snowing and
freezing cold! Yes, we’re in the dead of winter and I just happen to
live in Canada! Good thing for my ultra rugged woodstove… It’s days
like this that make me think back to warmer days of this past summer.
And, what a summer it was!
Many people ask me where my favourite lake is or what my best trip ever was or most commonly, what is my all time favourite fly-in fishing lodge. These are all tough questions because I do get to travel a lot and I’ve seen most regions of Canada in the last eight years of taping shows. After traveling to over 125 locations, I’ve experienced some seriously amazing fishing and I’ve been on a few trips, where for one reason or another, the fishing was pretty slow. I’ve been to some really great lodges, resorts and outpost camps and I’ve also walked out of a few… right in the middle of taping a show. (Yes, always get references!) But, if I had to pick one American Plan lodge that stands out from the crowd, I would have to say that Yellow Dog Lodge is my number one choice.
Back in July, 2007, myself and my wickedly rugged camera dude,
Adam Stewart, left Thunder Bay, flew over to Edmonton and then
straight up to Yellowknife, which is the capital city of The Northwest
Territories. One thing that always amazes me… just how easy it really
is to get up to The Territories. I’ve been to quite a few sport shows
in places like Minneapolis, Denver, Chicago and Green Bay and after
speaking to many people, I’ve learned that one of the most common
misconceptions is that it takes along time to get up to The NWT. Not
so. In fact, the airline service is so efficient, that you can get to
Yellowknife from anywhere in North America in one day. You can even
get there from Germany in one day too, believe it or not!
This past summer’s trip was actually my second visit to Yellow Dog. When I was there in 2004, it was under different ownership and was known as Pilote Point Lodge. There are so many reasons why I consider this fly–in lodge to be so awesome. First, getting there is so easy. The float plane ride from Yellowknife is only about fifteen minutes. And, take my word for it, after being on many hour plus float plane trips, those shorter ones are pretty sweet! Air Tindi is a veteran aviation company and they handle the flights for the lodge.
When you arrive at Yellow Dog Lodge, the first thing you’ll notice is the absolutely breath-taking location. Nestled in between Duncan and Graham Lakes, surrounded by beautiful mountain – like escarpment, it’s so obvious why this spot was picked in the first place. With a narrow channel flowing right in front of the lodge, you can catch fish after fish right there, from shore! When I was there this past summer, I caught three lake trout in only seven casts and I was standing about fifty feet from the entrance to the dining room! Talk about being spoiled… it’s almost ridiculous. Actually, change that… it IS ridiculous!
Another great feature about Yellow Dog Lodge is that it is the
only operation on both lakes. You’ll have unlimited water to explore
and if you do actually see another boat during your stay, it will be
from one of the other guests in camp. Since there are rarely more than
a dozen or so guests in camp at any one time, the odds are you won’t
see anyone at all during the entire day.
The scenic beauty of this area is one of the main reasons why I go back to The Northwest Territories every year. And, talk about crystal clear water… can you imagine actually seeing a lake trout grab your jig at about 25 feet below the surface? You will on this lake! You’ll look down, see a big grey shadow moving slowly… then without warning – a bright white flash explodes and smashes your lure! It’s really amazing to see this, because in many parts of Canada, the water, although not polluted, is not clear enough to witness this unique event with the naked eye. And, hey, if you get thirsty… put your cup over the side. You won’t find safer, cleaner water to drink anywhere, including that stuff that comes out of your kitchen tap!
Okay, let’s get into the fishing a bit more now. The lake trout fishing is amazing on both Graham and Duncan Lakes. When I was there in 2007, I spent most of my time trolling with big bright spoons behind downriggers and jigging with 4 inch tube jigs in white and sparkle grey colours. I really can’t count how many fish I caught in four days. Several hundred, at least. Unfortunately, I didn’t connect with a monster, but I nailed a pile in the ten pound class. And, talk about a scrappy fish. I just love the head shakes and body rolls of big, cold water lakers of Canada’s north country. I’ve always said that a big lake trout is your best fighting freshwater fish.
Just as luck would have it… the week following my trip, Allison Burback of Calgary caught a monster right out from the camp. To me this fish looks like a 25 pounder, but I’m not sure.
Yellow Dog Lodge also has a tremendous pike fishery, especially
if you get there in the early season, say… mid-June to early July.
Many anglers have taken 45 inch plus northern pike with spoons, soft
plastics, spinner baits or amazingly – big flies. That’s correct… fly
fishing for big gators is very popular these days and for good reason.
Early in the season after re-cooperating from the spawn, the big
females are hungry but not quite in the mood for chasing fast moving
meals. A big 6–10 inch streamer is just the ticket for enticing
these giants and the fight is always a memorable one. Trust me, have
plenty of backing on your reel! Some of the best sport in all of fresh
water fishing comes by way of the big northern on a fly.
One of my all time favourite fish to chase is the small but mighty Arctic grayling. These little scrappers are usually caught in the one – two pound range, but I’ll tell you from first hand experience that few fish of that size can do battle like a grayling. Yellow Dog Lodge has some of the best grayling fishing I’ve seen to date, with hungry fish ready to smash your dry fly or if you prefer, your spinner or small spoon.
On the third day of my trip, Yellow Dog owner, Gordon Gin took
Adam and I on a very cool trip to a river that flows in on the other
side of the lake. After landing our boat, we gathered our gear and in
this case, the weapon of choice was my four weight, Diamond Back fly
rod. We walked in to a gorgeous section of the river where it widens
out and then flows into a set of small rapids. There, Gord keeps a
couple of canoes stationed and ready for action. So, with cameraman
Adam positioned on shore, we had no problem getting some great footage
of me catching some good sized Arctic grayling. I was using a #12
yellow Humpy pattern, mainly because it’s rather bulky for a small
fly, floats well and is very visible to the fish as they lie in wait
for an easy meal. Grayling are not fussy.
Gordon is a certified canoe instructor, so talk about a bonus!
It’s nice to know you’re in good hands so you can concentrate on the
fishing end of the deal.
So, after about twenty minutes or so, I had landed several grayling, all about a pound or a pound and a half with their classic huge dorsal fin working the current as they do battle. And, talk about a jumping fish! Those little scrappers can launch themselves an easy three feet into the air.
At the end of the day, I have to say, I was pretty wiped out. Plenty of hot sun along with plenty of hot fishing will do that to even the most “rugged” of individuals out there. So, it was mighty nice to walk into to the lodge and sit down for a great meal. Gord’s wife, Kathy is an excellent cook and she will keep you well fed with some great home style meals. This particular night saw some juicy rib eye steaks put down in front of us… and both Adam and I plowed into ’em pretty hard. I think Adam kicked my butt in the “home made cookie” department though. Um… and uh… apple pie.
As I said earlier, the lodge is in a perfect location, right on
top of a small rock outcrop, giving you a perfect view of the lake.
The large deck is the best place on this earth for a morning coffee.
Gord’s dad, Sueloge (Slug) is in charge of the coffee department and
he makes a damn good one! He’s the first one up in the morning and I
guarantee that when you walk into the lodge the first thing you’ll
notice is the smell of fresh brewed coffee wafting through the air.
They should call the place, “Slug Hortons.”
In my opinion of the coolest things about being this far north,
is the seemingly endless amount of daylight. At Yellow Dog Lodge, you
could literally fish 20 hours a day. I woke up one morning thinking we
had slept in because the sun was up so high. Turned out it was only
4:30 am… and of course, I couldn’t get back to sleep. I was just too
wound up about getting out there and nailing some more big lakers! So,
I quietly snuck out of my cabin and grabbed my fishing rod and started
casting from shore. After about fifteen minutes I had landed three
juicy trout, all about 5 pounds or so. That’s not a bad way to start
off the day, especially since I was still in my boxers! (You’re
welcome.)
The boats at the camp are all big, 16–18 footers with four
stroke motors of 15 & 25 HP on the back. I really like a boat with
a wide frame and that’s what you’ll find at Yellow Dog. There is some
big water up there and you want to be safe. Speaking of big water, I
have been to many lodges where there are few places to get out of the
wind on those crazy days. In fact, I have been “blown out” many times,
not being able to go out at all on some lakes; but not at Yellow Dog.
If a big wind is happening, you can easily get onto to the smaller
Graham lake where you’ll find tons of lakers and northern pike.
Guests are asked to return the bigger fish to the lake for others to enjoy and to keep the gene pool strong for future stocks. But, that’s not to say you can’t carve a few smaller trout for lunch. Gord’s quite the shore lunch chef, as I found out one day. He did this thing with fresh lake trout, peppers, onions, mushrooms, garlic, potatoes, beans… wow! Ask him about that one… far from your standard issue deep fat fish fry! Trying to stay awake after a meal like that is a challenge.
There are so many reasons why I just love Yellow Dog Lodge. The
scenery and location, the lodge itself, the comfortable cabins, the
easy access, the food and the fishing are all key. But, just as
importantly, you’ll have a hard time finding nicer people who operate
a fishing camp who are more eager to please their guests. I’ve always
said that customer service is critical in this industry and the Gin
gang definitely have that part down!
Rugged Dude Rating:
* * * * * out of Five
RD, “The Rugged Dude” is host of Officially Rugged with RD seen by millions of viewers from all around North America.
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